The "Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics" (hereinafter referred to as the "Regulations"), which has attracted much attention from the industry, has finally been issued! Compared with the "Regulations on Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision" issued in 1989, the contents of the "Regulations" have undergone many new changes. The classification and management of raw materials and the encouragement of technological innovation are undoubtedly a highlight of the "Regulations".

1. The "Regulations" implement classified management of cosmetic raw materials, especially new raw materials, and set a monitoring period for new raw materials

(1) Implement classified management of cosmetic raw materials according to risk differences. Many contents of the "Regulations" involve the management of raw materials, dividing cosmetic raw materials into new raw materials and used raw materials, including clear classification management of cosmetic raw materials according to the degree of risk, and registration or filing of new raw materials according to the degree of risk Management, the drug regulatory department of the State Council formulates a list of prohibited raw materials. The "Regulations" clearly stated that new cosmetic raw materials with antiseptic, sunscreen, coloring, hair dyeing, spot-removing and whitening functions can only be used after registration by the State Council's drug regulatory authority; other new cosmetic materials should be filed with the State Council's drug regulatory authority before use. The recorder of new cosmetic raw materials shall complete the record after submitting the record materials stipulated in these Regulations through the online government service platform of the drug regulatory department of the State Council.

The above-mentioned contents of the "Regulations" refine new cosmetic raw materials based on risk differences and implement classified management, that is, register and manage high-risk raw materials such as preservatives, sunscreens, colorants, hair dyes, and freckle whitening agents. Other ordinary new raw materials with relatively low risks no longer require administrative approval and are changed to record management. The recorder can use it after completing the record online.

(2) Set up a monitoring period for new raw materials. The "Regulations" does not leave the record management of ordinary new raw materials all alone. In addition to clearly stipulating the information requirements to be submitted when applying for the registration or filing of new cosmetic raw materials in Article 12, it also specifically stipulates in Article 14 , Within 3 years after the registered and filed new cosmetic raw materials are put into use, the registrant and filer of the new raw materials shall report the use and safety of the new raw materials to the drug regulatory department of the State Council every year. For new cosmetic raw materials that have safety problems, the drug regulatory department under the State Council shall deregister or cancel the record. New cosmetic raw materials that have not had any safety issues after the three-year period expires will be included in the list of used cosmetic raw materials formulated by the drug regulatory department of the State Council.

Ensuring the safety of use is the bottom line of the management of cosmetic raw materials (including new raw materials). The measure of setting up a monitoring period for new raw materials can be understood as implementing classification management of new cosmetic raw materials and simplifying the use procedures of common new raw materials. At the same time, new raw material registrants and recorders must pay close attention to the safety of their use after the new raw materials are on the market, and implement relevant regulations. The main responsibility of the enterprise is to ensure the safe use of new raw materials. In fact, to ensure the safe use of new raw materials is also to ensure the self-interest of related companies and promote their long-term development.

2. "Regulations" emphasize the safety of raw materials

Raw materials are the basis of cosmetics and the source of the entire life cycle of cosmetics. Generally speaking, cosmetics are a mixture of various raw materials processed and prepared in accordance with the formula ratio, and most of this preparation is a physical mixing process, with few chemical reactions involved. Therefore, the safety and function of raw materials directly affect the safety and performance of finished cosmetics.

(1) Emphasize the use of raw materials up to standards and compliance. The "Regulations" emphasizes that the raw materials used in the production of cosmetics should comply with mandatory national standards and technical specifications, and that expired, discarded, or recycled cosmetic raw materials must not be used. In the "Regulations" Chapter IV Supervision and Management, it is proposed that in accordance with the development of scientific research, when there is a change in the knowledge of the safety of cosmetics and its raw materials or problems are found, the relevant registrant and filing party may be ordered to conduct a safety reassessment. Really pay attention to the safety of raw materials and products with a developmental vision, thoroughly implement the concept of scientific supervision, and ensure the safety of cosmetics.

(2) Penalty clauses are specifically set for raw materials. The fifth chapter of the "Regulations" legal liability clarifies corresponding penalties for illegal situations such as the use of prohibited raw materials, unregistered or filed new raw materials, raw materials that do not meet national mandatory standards, technical specifications, and expired raw materials.

The "Regulations" pay more attention to the management of cosmetic raw materials, directly address the key and difficult points of cosmetics safety supervision, and have a very positive significance for effectively improving supervision efficiency, plugging supervision loopholes from the source, and ensuring the safety of cosmetics.

3. The "Regulations" clearly proposes to encourage innovation and meet industry development needs

(1) Classification management of new raw materials is conducive to innovation. According to the composition characteristics of cosmetics, in the current relatively mature preparation process, the innovation of cosmetics mainly depends on the innovation of raw materials, especially the development and innovation of functional raw materials and raw materials that contribute to the improvement of cosmetic formulations. Previously, in accordance with the requirements of the "Regulations on Hygiene Supervision of Cosmetics," my country implemented overall registration management for new cosmetic raw materials. Because there is no classification management, and the review criteria are not refined in conjunction with the characteristics of cosmetic raw materials, companies applying for a new raw material, even if it is only a high molecular polymer with no transdermal ability or edible ordinary vegetable oil, often need to be supplemented multiple times. According to the data, it takes several years on average to declare new raw materials, and only a handful of new cosmetic raw materials have been approved in China in the past 10 years. On the one hand, the enthusiasm of enterprises to declare new raw materials is affected. On the other hand, new raw materials that have been proven to have good performance and are widely used in the world cannot be used in Chinese cosmetics. This has also increased the number of Chinese cosmetics. The gap with foreign companies in terms of technology and innovation.

Cosmetics is a fashion industry, and the fast product update cycle is an outstanding feature of the industry. This feature of the industry requires companies to continuously introduce new products to the market. The classification management of new raw materials will undoubtedly play a very important role in improving the overall performance and quality of cosmetics.

(2) Encourage technological innovation at the same time. The "Regulations" encourages cosmetics companies to innovate not only in the management of new raw materials, but the "Regulations" clearly stated in the general provisions: "The state encourages and supports the development of cosmetics research and innovation to meet consumer needs. National protection units and The legitimate rights and interests of individuals to carry out cosmetic research and innovation."

A highlight of the "Regulations" is to encourage innovation, which is good for the healthy development of the entire industry. The development of a country is inseparable from science and technology, and the development of an industry, especially the cosmetics industry as a fashion industry, is inseparable from the overall emphasis on science and technology and the improvement of corporate innovation capabilities. An enterprise that does not have technical strength but only uses "story-writing" to attract consumers will not do it for long. Only innovation-driven development will have a better future.

The reason why the future is worth looking forward to must be her beauty. Let us not forget our original intention, and set off when the "Regulations" is promulgated, and jointly welcome the new future of the healthy development of my country's cosmetics industry!

About the author: Xu Liang, male, professor-level senior engineer. He is currently a member of the Cosmetic Standards Expert Committee of the State Food and Drug Administration, a cosmetic technology review expert, a distinguished professor of the Advanced Research Institute of the State Food and Drug Administration, and the chairman of the Cosmetic Expert Committee of the Beijing Municipal Food and Drug Administration. He graduated from Beijing Technology and Business University with a bachelor's degree in daily chemical industry. He has been engaged in the research of cosmetics and its raw materials for more than 30 years. Published more than 70 papers, participated in the compilation of many books such as "Cosmetics Safety and Management Regulations" and "Cosmetics Supervision Practices", and participated in China's "Regulations on the Acceptance of Cosmetic Administrative Licensing Application" and "Key Points of Cosmetic Technology Review" and other cosmetic regulations The drafting, revision and verification of the (Xu Liang, Beijing Institute of Daily Use Chemistry)